Wednesday, May 23, 2007

Weighing In--Is That Camper the Right Fit for Your Truck?

It's an area that truck camper newbies sometimes get caught up in: Not every camper is a suitable fit for your truck. Every truck has a weight capacity that it's "happy" to carry--go over that capacity and things can get ugly.

How do you properly marry your truck to a camper? First, you need to know how much weight your truck can handle. The figures are fairly straight forward. On the inside driver side doorpost you'll find a sticker showing the GVWR (Gross Vehicle Weight Rating) for your truck. This figure is the total amount your truck can weigh, including fuel, passengers, and "cargo" which a truck camper becomes. In the photo, the GVWR of this venerable Ford is 8,800 pounds.

It's easy enough to subtract the "curb weight" of the truck from that figure--if you have access to it. The curb weight may show up on your title or registration. It's better to take your truck down to a commercial scale and weigh it in, preferably with a full fuel tank. After all, equipment added on after manufacture will add on real weight. Now, add in estimated weights for passengers (Careful fellas! Hide the scratch paper from your better-half!). Now subtract that actual weight for the truck from the GVWR figure for your truck, and you know how much truck camper you can carry. Or do you?

The weight of your camper is stamped on an ID tag, usually found somewhere on the back of the camper. This weight, however, lists the camper with "standard" options. If the camper manufacturer considers a refrigerator, or stove, or furnace an "option" then you've got to guestimate these items in, and add them on. Jacks might be considered an option, as would be an air conditioning unit. How do you figure out whether these are standards or options? Ask the manufacturer.

The "certified" camper weight from the tag should include full water and propane tanks. But you'll be adding your own "stuff" to this weight. Food, clothing, books, gear, dog, the list goes on. Add 'em all up and tack them on to the camper weight. Now, are you "in the ballpark" for your truck's load capacity? Overloading your truck can lead to trouble, so it's best to keep it in the rating area.


8 comments:

Anonymous said...

Is it possible to supplement the trucks GVRW with airbags on the rear suspension? Or is this rating to be applied to suspension, brake and other components? Not just the nose "light" problem associated with overloading a pickup. With the addition of the highest rated (read load rating)tire, will airbags increase the carrying capacity? Scott

Russ and Tiña De Maris said...

Scott:
Some do use airbags or other "lift" methods to "redistribute" the load weight. However, actually going over the GVWR with or without beefing up the suspension is treading on dangerous ground. The arguement is often made, "Oh, the truck manufacturers always understate their real load capacity," holds only so much water. If an overloaded truck breaks, you can bet the manufacturer won't honor a warranty. If it's involved in a traffic accident, then there may well be liability issues raised.

Anonymous said...

You left out a key component of my confusion. Both Chevrolet and Ford have a separate figure for maximum camper weight. I was shopping for a new truck and found a sticker in the glove compartment that severly limited the allowable weight if the "cargo" was to be a "camper".

Bill

Russ and Tiña De Maris said...

Bill (comment of July 2)
Wow! That's a new one for us. Did the dealer have any explanation as to why a camper would count differently as payload weight?

Borderbandido said...

Both Dodge and Ford (not sure of GM)publish extensive information booklets for loading a camper on their trucks. 2008 Dodge has 15 pages of their truck by model and carrying capacity. Ford has one but it is smaller, does show however the center of gravity inside bed of truck, max carrying capacity, etc. So the best source at least for late model trucks is still the manufacturer. CAT Scales is a gereat source of info, regardless of what the tags say, load it up, weight it in then decide. If you have some influence, the State Police have small portable scales you can take right to a site and weigh it in then and there before you buy or buy with the safe and legal clause in the contract.

Borderbandido said...

In retrospect, I have 20-20 vision looking back..I've owned four truck campers 3 %w and 2 MH's, I prefer the truck camper to all, but, one of the safest thing I ever did was switch from Ford 18' wheels and tires to Rickson 19.5 wheels and Bridgestone 4,800 lbs carrying capacity commercial tires. I will never be able to wear them out, but man what a difference in carrying a camper! LT tires at their best will barely carry a tad over 3,000 lbs each. Load Range E vs Load Range G or H, costs more than airbags, but really supports the load all the way around. An extra large (Dia) sway bar is a most welcome addition. This in reply to Scott

Anonymous said...

Bandido says 19.5 tires and wheels. With my 18's the camper has to be a skyscraper to get under it!

Andy n6ijf said...

Yeah, camper's are high center of gravity, and because of this less
total weight as a stability factor.

Larger anti sway bars, and dually's help with this stability, but as always 'your mileage might vary'
Andy n6ijf

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